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 East West
Real Life
by dorothee lang
Monday March 21st, 2005 at 01:39:42 PDT
Leipzig. It's only five hours from here, from Stuttgart. Still I never
been there before. Been to Italy, to India, to Ireland, but never
to the East of Germany. Arrived there with a mix of pictures in mind,
mostly the blurred memories of newsflashes and films, headlines of
reunion and run down cities, Plattenbauten, Goodbye Lenin, the red
star, another world in the same country.
Arriving there, what struck me most were the houses. Ruins of deserted
houses next to neatly renovated places with fresh neon signs on top. A bizarre
mix of life. And our flat, right in the middle of it. Rented for a long weekend,
mostly because the hotels were all full already due to the book fair, this huge
happening that brought us here, too. Us, that is: me, B. and J., three friends
with a week spot for books and art. And there it was, our rent flat, next to a
Konsum shop, opposite an empty house, with a view to the towers of the city, with
a view to roofs roamed by pigeons.
One of the things I didn't realize before : Leipzig was the place where
the democratic revolution in East Germany started in 1989. The centre of the revolution
back then: the Nikolai-Church. We didn't search for it, simply walked from the
main train station towards the centre plaza, and there it was. This church. A
memory pillar next to it, with lines telling of the past. One of the renovated
buildings, to the right. Behind it, an ugly glass square that probably dates back
to the DDR times. And a message in the background, painted on a wall. Not an advertising,
but a political statement.
"Real Life - a manual. You shall / not ..
burn your passport
destroy geography
deny citizenship
ignore
continents
separate yourself" Seeing it now, those lines touch
a lot of topics that surfaced again and again in places, thoughts, art, books,
discussions over this weekend that turned surprisingly political in this city
that once was home to Wolfgang Goethe and to Johann Sebastian Back, in this city
that is so livid still. And the people. They are different there. More down to
earth. Not so styled like here, in the Western part of Germany. Especially the
younger generation. In the TV, you keep hearing about their frustration and depressions
for the economy is so low in the East. And then we came there and saw so energetic
young people, wearing their own style instead of Benetton and S. Oliver and what
not. Same when we went to the book fair. There was a hall that was focused
on underground comics, another on "small languages" - the countries
that are small in size, and get hardly published outside their own borders, like
Poland, Czech Republic, Hungary. So many young people there. So many topics. Such
a variety of books, of voices. And this feeling, it's a loss those voices are
so small, that there isn't more exchange, translation, transfer of idea. That
there are so many newspaper and magazines, but that there seems to be a blank
spot when it comes the underground, or to the intellectual elite. "The Wolfgang
Goethe and Thomas Mann, the Martin Luther, Nelson Mandela, Lech Walesa of our
time, where are they?", J. put the feeling in words. "They are all busy
writing their biographies," B. answered. She is working in an art publishing
company. "It's so much about money," she said. "The art books we
make, they are made in such a rush, it's a pity." Sunday morning then,
a long breakfast in our kitchen. a conversation that went more and more from moments
to basics. About how our society seems to be dominated by small circles - how
a few bands, authors, artists get the main share of interest, and how "International"
so often means "Western", even though there is so much more. Same with
the global companies - it was somehow frightening to see how they already took
over the city centre, the main street there. With its shops, it could have been
any European town. Starbucks coffee, H&M fashion, book shops plastered with
Dan Brown novels to read, two McDonalds to eat, Blockbuster video to rent, Hallmark
postcards to send, and on and on. But what to do. How to change that. How
to turn to more individual, broader in perspective, deeper in reflection. How
to make a difference. And what difference can one person make anyway in this global
world, we asked, there, in this other city, in the kitchen that was ours for some
days. It was the radio that gave the answer, that announced the counterpart thought.
"Wir müssen etwas bewegen, sonst bewegt sich nichts," Xavier Naidoo
sang. - "We have to make a move, otherwise nothing will start to move." Sitting
there, we played with the thought, what would happen if for some days, everyone
would get out of the routine, and instead of watching TV, would go to see a new
place, to learn something about history, to browse those unmentioned books, to
look for new tunes, to remember the past, to paint a picture of the future, to
think about his or her place in society. What a difference it could make,
such a quiet rebellion.
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