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Xuchang was a city so small that any
place could be reached within five or seven minutes. Small, however,
did not mean less people. Henan Province was the most populous in
China, and considering that China was a country with 1.3 billion
people, Xuchang seemed to be overflowing. Only in the afternoon,
during their siesta time did the streets finally calm down. Yet,
oddly enough, Ru Yi felt at home here - sensing a bliss that she
couldn't define. While walking to the old Weng Feng Ta square after
another long day at school, she saw people out for a stroll with
families in the early evening.
If only I could take some of
that happiness, Ru Yi wished, and sprinkle it all over MG Road 's
stress-ridden streets in Bangalore. Or – but before Ru Yi could
reach the next conclusion, she reached the tiny restaurant to which
Liu Dong, one of her former English students, had invited her.
The restaurant was charming, consisting of six rickety
tables, guarded by a small dog. Liu Dong was there already – he had
bought a bottle of orange juice, and poured it out into small
teacups. Orange juice in Chinese teacups. Noodles and eggs on a
plate.
Liu Dong talked about Chairman Mao. "To me, he is
still a great hero," he said. Ru Yi tried to ask him about Mao's
failed policies.
"No one is perfect," he shrugged. "Do you
like Gandhi?" he asked her in turn.
For a while, Ru Yi
didn't know what to answer. Her mind whirled: Did she like Gandhi?
Maybe yes. But a lot of people in India held Gandhi responsible for
the partition of India. He gave away Pakistan. Was he responsible,
really? Did she like Gandhi?
Did she?
Ru Yi
reached for a pebble in her pocket. "Gandhi was a great hero," she
finally said. The mind. What we think. What we say. Such a bridge.
Unlike oranges, the mind can never be peeled and sliced.
More orange juice flew in the teacups. Liu Dong told a tale
of Chinese lore. A tale of heaven and hell, and of chopsticks and
spoons:
Once a wealthy Chinese man died. At the crossroads
of heaven and hell, he was shown around by a friendly spirit. First
he entered Hell. There was a lavish banquet going on. A great
variety of food was on the table. But all the people at the table
were malnourished. They were in pain, they were starving. They could
not eat the food in front of them - placed in front of their bowls
were really long chopsticks. Longer than the length of an arm. Too
long to lift to ones mouth. The Chinese man then said, show me
Heaven. In Heaven, the same scene was replayed. But this time, the
people at the table were happy. They were fat and healthy. The
Chinese man was greatly surprised. He saw that the people in Heaven
also had the same long chopsticks. "How are they able to eat then?"
he asked. "Watch," said the friendly spirit. And the Chinese man
saw. Without a word, he went and sat down at the table, picked up
the chopsticks next to him, and fed the person in front of him.
"People in Hell only think of themselves. But the people in
Heaven think of the other," said Liu Dong.
After they had
finished dinner, Liu Dong asked her for 300 Yuan. He was going home
for the Spring Festival and his employer on his first job hadn't
paid him his salary as yet, he explained awkwardly. Ru Yi thought of
the treat, of the tales and finally the despair that would have
forced a young man of 21 to ask a foreigner, a stranger really, for
money.
Like orange juice in Chinese teacups.
Only that sometimes, there is no teacup.
*
A day later, Ru Yi headed out to
the suburbs, to fields and a park Liu Dong had pointed out to her
during the dinner. Ru Yi couldn't quite imagine it, but after barely
a few minutes of cycling, there they were: green fields. A muddy
track led through them - the stalks of wheat were flattened by the
hailstorm of the night before - little pools of slush and grime
clung to the tyres of the cycle, and the winds that winged their way
from Xinjiang across the desert plains up far north, making it music
in Ru Yi's ears.
It was one of those moments, where for a
minute, Ru Yi paused, rested against the cycle and got the feeling
that all was slipping away - that time was moving faster than light
and everything that is, will already be and will never be again.
The feeling accompanied her as she came across the park. The
small trees there had bloomed into yellow. Ru Yi had not seen
something like this in her life, that an entire tree changes colors.
The same leaves that must have been green just a few days ago were
now clothed in a riotous yellow.
Ru Yi's cycle broke down
then, leaving it without a brake, and for an instant, she felt maybe
it was because the trees were telling her something. Something that
life had always told her but she never followed: to leave it all
behind and be part of the moment. Just that one moment. . |